Thursday, January 17, 2019

Standard Tripod Camera Boom

Shop Made Tripod Camera Boom

Occasionally I capture work in my shop to share on this and other blogs. I like to use my Samsung phones camera because it a good camera and Google Photo's automatically uploads them on wifi so then I can manage and modify them on my PC at a later time.
I also like that I can snap shots by voice "Capture" if my hands are occupied.

POV

Point of View shots are hard to get so I set out to research products and methods to get my readers a better view. From the research I decided to try out a boom that held my phone. After getting some inspiration from others that used microphone booms that adapted to the standard tripod I decided to make a setup like that in the shop.

The Design

An old metal broom handle (I wondered why I was keeping that) held into the tripod by a wooden adapter with a PVC counter weight will allow me to position the phone above my work at differing angles and positions.
Another adapter connects the phone to the end of the boom, safely I hope.

Fabrication

The entire contraption

Boom attachment & adjusting bracket
Counter weigh (PVC pipe full of rocks) in background

The adjustable phone mount

Details of the phone mount
Note the grey foam to the right of the phone.
It serves to keep the phone tight against the shoulder screws on the left. The screws are out of view under the left rubber band.
Acrylic glue was used to affix the sides of the clear mount.

Testing

Now I just have to try it out on some project. If it works well I may buy a more professional setup but for now its just the right price.

If this post is a help or inspiration to you then consider donating! 
Donations help buy new stuff for the shop!
The donation button is on the upper left .....

Enjoy and comment,
Don K

Sunday, December 16, 2018

Rolling Pin

My First Shop Made Rolling Pin

My daughter in law collects rolling pins. I didn't want her collection to be void of a version from my shop.
This pin was turned from maple with walnut handles.  I got the hardware from Woodcraft and the wood from my vast pile. 
It was a fun project and I simply followed the instructions that Woodcraft provided with the hardware kit.
I bought the brad point bit they suggested and it was well worth the $ to get a hole bored straight through the pin.
Take your time finding the center of the blank and this project will go smoothly.

The cutouts for the bearings

Drilling a hole from either side with a brad point bit.
Layout was important

Removing the corners with the band-saw jig

Turning the handles


Why is getting them to look the same so hard!

All assembled. Stainless shaft and sealed bearings



Enjoy and comment,
Don

The Beauty In the Blank

Beauty is More Than Skin Deep

This work is dedicated to "Greg Brenard who passed this week. Greg was a brother-in-law, friend and my wood turning sensei.

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I knew something was out of wack in our universe. It was my wife's ceramic yarn bowl among the many wooden hand turned round things in our house. I had not noticed that she has been using a ceramic one ... for years, she said!
So I'm here in the shop just 14 days to Christmas and I decided to make my wife, who knits profusely, a wooden yarn bowl.

I clomped through the snow out to my shed where there is a stash of wood that has been drying for more than 10 years. I found a blank of burl that seemed perfect for the job.

But what to my wondering eyes should appear....
A series of voids and wandering grains that unveiled the hidden beauty of this piece of wood.
That was the end of the yarn bowl project. The idea put aside while I attended to this beauty!
That's it I will call it "The Beauty"....


Prepare the Tenon

It became obvious as I formed a tenon for the chuck that this piece would be a challenge. A large # of voids were present near the bottom of the blank making me wonder how well it would hold up under the remaining roughing passes. These piece would take patience with light cuts wherever possible.

I found that a pretty smooth cut can be achieved by using a sharp bowl gouge in a nearly "closed" position. In an almost vertical position it sheer cuts the wood on the tools cutting edge producing very fine shavings and a smooth surface. 
On this piece I used this tool position to finish the bottom near the tenon as it likely that I will not be able to get close-in once the "beauty" is mounted in the chuck.

Ready for Hollowing?

The Beauty was mounted in the chuck and on the lathe ready for hollowing. 

A Hollowing Experience

The hollowing process consisted of repeating:
  • Drilling with a 2" Forster bit to remove some of the meat
  • Hollowing with a olander bit up to a 1/4' wall
  • Semi-finish with round carbide cutter
  • Finish with my beefy curved scraper
I repeated the above process a few times until I was near the bottom.

Wow not much of the rim left but looks cool!


There are two problems obvious with this piece at this stage:
  1. It  is going to be hard to get the inside smooth with all the voids. Reaching in with sandpaper is to dangerous. I will have to use a scraper for the inside..... difficult with all that cutting in space due to voids.
  2. How am I going to turn the beauty around to remove the tenon and finish the bottom???

Work Holding the Beauty 

I have to somehow flip and mount the Beauty so I can turn the tenon off and finish the bottom. I also need to mount the finished piece so that I can spray lacquer it while its turning.

I decided that the only way I would be successful was to mount the bowl to a fixture by affixing something to the inside bottom and what rim is left.

I decided to:
  • Use a piece of PVC pipe mounted in another chuck to reach the bottom.
  • Use a piece of flat stock with a hole the size of the PVC to make a Rim Plate to attach the rim to the PVC.
  • Use hot glue since I need to be able to remove the Beauty when done
  • Use a threaded adapter in the tail stock to align the second chuck while on the lathe and before I remove the first chuck
Drilling hole in Rim Plate using an adjustable hole drill.
This needed to match the PVCs' OD which is not a standard size.

PVC pipe chucked and extends into the Beauty. Glued to the bottom.
The Rim Plate slipped over the PVC and glued to Beauty's rim.

Ready to turn around.
To the right (out of view) is the second chuck in tail stock.
The threaded adapter kept the second chuck on center


Finishing the Bottom

Light cuts with a detail gouge was needed to keep this assembly in tack while cutting the bottom. To make matters worse there were voids in the bottom that caused vibration while cutting. 
The need to run pretty high speed to aid in getting a good finish exacerbated the situation. 
This is a good time to stand to the side of the piece while turning in case it came off. 
The tail stock was left engaged until the very last finishing cut.



Freeing the Beauty

I used a heat gun to carefully soften the hot glue and part the Rim Plate from the rim. When the glue is hot you can wipe it away with a soft cloth. I wondered if the glue stays in the grain and would give me problems with the finish.
Note the glue mark around the rim :(



Finish the Beauty's Exterior

I left the pipe in the Beauty so I could rotate the piece during finishing. I decided to use Deft Satin lacquer as I did not want a high gloss sheen to detract from the grains beauty.
I used 10 coats and sanded (after waiting 24 hrs) below any shiny spots at every 5 coats.
Finishing on my slow rotation jig
Dry and ready to finish the inside

Removing the Pipe

The pipe was removed by directing a heat gun down the inside and around the pipe.
I sharpened the curved edge of this linoleum knife.
Then used it like a scraper in the bottom,
 removing the glue residue.

Pretty clean!

Finish the Inside

The Beauty was remounted to a wood face plate using hot glue so the inside could be finished while slowly rotating. 

Completing the Beauty

The finish was allowed to dry for 24 hours and then was removed from the wood face-plate, buffed and waxed.




The Yarn Bowl

The yarn bowl project followed this interruption!

Enjoy and comment;
Don