I noticed that at the holiday time everyone likes to turn "inside out" ornaments.
So I decided to see if you could model it.
Below is my first try. Haven't yet figured out how to turn the outside profile.
I just completed the Holy Water Font. Above you can see the model and the finished project.
This project included many disciplines, woodturning, inlays, guilding and metal spinning. In this post I will focus on the modelling part of the project. Turning details can be found at Turnedoutright.com.
Above you can see all the objects of the model. The main part of the models object can be seen on the virtual lathe. These parts were assembled and colored to the right.
Turning at the Virtual Lathe
Seen in this close up all the components were modeled in the round. Then the halfmoons (lower right and left of the back) were subtracted from the back by intersecting 3D circles with the model. Note: I decided not to use these in the real model. Also the ring that held the AL dish was designed with a solid bottom but I made it an open ring during turning since I was afraid it would retain water. The Rings
The rings were also modeled in 3D. I decided to use the flat model on the right for the actual carving but used the 3d version on the left for the model printouts. The AL Dish
This story stick printed full scale was used to make the spinning mandrel.
The Final Assembly
Above you can see the final assembly, where the fit was tested.
SketchUp is a great application to use for designing tools. As an example, here is a depth gauge that I built for my lathe. A full explanation and a free copy of the model is posted on the turnedoutright site.
This is great exposure toward the advancement of "3D Woodturning Modeling".
"I was just alerted to the presence of a really neat blog about using SketchUp for woodturning. It's called Turnedoutright, and it's worth a look -- even if you're not a woodturner yourself. The SketchUp models are outstanding."
Thanks to Aidan Chopra
The Music box is completed, watch for final post on the project.
To review, one of the useful things to do after you competed your computer design is to print a full scale drawing of the turning. This story stick allows you can take measurements directly with your caliper. I don't like to have to do math when I'm standing in front of the lathe, no not even multiplying by 2x :)
Normally I print a cross section view (requires that I multiply measurements by 2x) or a 3D view (doesn't show internal dimensions) and go to the shop.
After drawing the cross section make a copy to the right of your original and render it in 3D, all on the "grid background".
Then click on the cross section tool [Menu: tools/section plane] and drag it to the "Grid Background" plane and click on an intersection of the grid lines. This will put the crossection on the same plane as the grid and therefore it will show up on your story stick.
SketchUp will slice the rendered pieces at the centerline of the lathe showing internal and external dimensions in full scale.
Print full scale and take to the shop.
Now all your measurements can be taken directly by setting your caliper to match the drawing.
Its not to early to start the planning for your Mothers Day turning! I decided to take on another modeling and turning challenge. Inspired by the book "Masterful Woodturning" (ISBN 0-8069-8709-X). I decided to combine woodturning and music boxes.
Design goals for the Music Box project:
Box with a removable lid
Made from a burl
Music box hidden inside
Wind the music box without opening top
This is a unique challenge because I wanted to make the top rotate with the power of the music box as well as using it to wind the mechanism.
This meant that the box would be multiple pieces that would need to fit together with relatively tight tolerances. Here is how the entire project was then modeled on the Virtual Lathe in 1-1 scale. Step1: The music box itself was modeled. It became obvious that the center of rotation of the music box was offset. This meant that the bottom would have to be quite a bit larger than the music box.
Step 2: Just as if you had sliced the final assembly down the middle, draw the 1/2 cross section of the entire assembly on the grid making sure to interpose all the components like they will fit in the final assembly. In this design there is a music box, base, top, finial and coupler. Notice how the model of the music box is used to get the dimensions correct in 2 and 3D. HINT:I like to create the cross section first then perform a few trial and error renderings by rendering it then "undoing". After I get the design the way I like it I make a copy of the cross section to the right on the grid. Always keep at least one copy of your 2D cross section "un-rendered" so that you can come back later and make modifications. You will also need the 2D version of the model to make a story stick. Step 3: This project has multiple components so make a copy of the 2D cross section to the right and then separate the components horizontally into individual pieces. Render them as four 3D components. HINT: An easy way to do this is to select the line segments that belong to each individual component and group them. Then move all that components line segments as a group.Once the components are separated on the grid render and group them as individual 3D items. Then group all the 3D groups before you copy the entire assembly to the right off the lathe. Step 4: Move and copy the entire assembly to the right and then rotate it vertically. Note the music box offset in the bottom so the shaft is on the center line of the top. Step 5: Make yet another copy of the entire assembly. Explode it into separate grouped components. Then assemble the music box using these components to give a final view.
Step 6: Using the section tool create a sectional view through the entire piece to check for internal interferences. As you can see the coupler has a problem it seems to long! Step 7: Using the dimensions from the 2D cross section as my guide, I found some redwood burl the right size. I guess its time to go to the shop! Enjoy! Donnie
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